Ruffoni Review

Ruffoni stock potNot everybody can afford an Aston Martin DB9, but when 007 drives one we all seem to have some form of envy, even though you know the bluetooth isn’t going to work, the navigation is gonna suck, and there are no cup holders to be found.  In a way, owning a Ruffoni pot reminds me of this.

Ruffoni stock potSure, the main line of Ruffoni that most of us can afford doesn’t have 2 mm thick copper, but who cares.  When you bring zuppa to the table in one of these babies, even the late Tony Soprano would shed a tear. Every kitchen should have a space for “style first” and “function second” .. and these gorgeous Ruffoni pots certainly have a prominent place in my collection.

Acorn handleWhen Curt and I were planning our kitchen remodel, we left space for the Ruffoni pots on the display shelf as I wouldn’t dream of hanging one on my pot rack! Not only are these pots beautiful, they are a pleasure to cook in.  If I’m making a pedestrian dish, say, chicken noodle soup, the 3 1/2 quart stock pot works perfectly.

I came across a relatively inexpensive 3 1/2 quart Ruffoni on eBay.  It was damaged in that it had a 2 “dimple” dent on the side, and a bent lid. Curt heated up the pot, took a mallet to the dents, and in no time it was ready to go.

Ruffoni - 11Recently we found this beautiful stainless steel braiser on eBay, with aArtichoke handle base made of hammered steel. There’s plenty of room for a LeCreuset and Mauviel to be jealous as they glance across the shelf to see the graceful leaf pulling away from the handle.  It has a fennel bulb for the top handle .. so interesting.

I admit .. I’ve gotten a bit carried away with the Ruffonis but my husband says it’s like having a couple of Sophia Lorens sitting on the counter.  We both appreciate fine beauty, and when it comes to performance, they’re good enough!

Having a copper stock pot is wonderful for dropping the temperature of a chicken stock quickly before it goes into the fridge.  Because the copper is so quick to react, it works perfectly for cooling stock.

Ruffoni - 02If you’d like to add a few of these Ruffoni beauties to your collection, keep an eye out on eBay as there are broke brides looking to sell!

If you can’t tell, I enjoy driving an impractical 470 horsepower-premium-only car and cooking in a drop-dead-gorgeous Ruffoni .. two of my favorite indulgences.

Ruffoni - 04I recently reviewed Baumalu pots.

I forgot to wear green

St. Patrick's Day11 Having been to Ireland a couple of times, I have an appreciation for St. Patrick and all that he did to help his people.  The interesting thing was, here in the US we all wear green on St. Patrick’s day, but in Ireland, I didn’t see much green .. only a whole lot of fluorescent.  We learned from the locals that one way of complimenting an Irish baby is to tell mom that the baby looks very “Celtic” .. loved that.  While thinking about what libations to serve with my lamb Shepherd’s Pie, I was reflecting on time spent with Curt’s Irish Uncle Brendan, wondering if he had chosen Bushmills or Jameson to celebrate.  Knowing that he’s a Catholic, he probably chose for the Jameson .. or he could have surprised me and reached for a Guinness.

In my book, there’s no better way to celebrate than gathering with friends over a good, hearty meal.  Here’s what was cookin’ in my kitchen last Sunday.

St. Patrick's Day01I feel strongly that every St. Patrick’s Day feast should begin with fresh soda bread. Mmmm .. one of my favorites!  I experimented with a new recipe from Epicurious, called Brown Butter Soda Bread.  I was drawn to this particular recipe because it included fresh rosemary, rolled oats, and was topped with ground black pepper. Definitely a keeper!

Ingredients
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
3 1/2 cups all purpose flour
1/2 cup old-fashioned oats
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
3/4 teaspoon ground black pepper plus additional for topping
1 3/4 cups buttermilk
1 egg white, beaten to blend

St. Patrick's Day02Directions
Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 375°F. Stir butter in heavy small saucepan over medium heat until melted and golden brown, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat.

Stir flour, oats, sugar, rosemary, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and 3/4 teaspoon pepper in large bowl to blend. Pour buttermilk and melted browned butter over flour mixture; stir with fork until flour mixture is moistened.

Turn dough out onto floured work surface. Knead gently until dough comes together, about 7 turns. Divide in half. Shape each half into ball; flatten each into 6-inch round. Place rounds on ungreased baking sheet, spacing 5 inches apart. Brush tops with beaten egg white. Sprinkle lightly with ground black pepper. Using small sharp knife, cut 1/2-inch-deep X in top of each dough round.St. Patrick's Day07

Bake breads until deep golden brown and tester inserted into center comes out clean, about 45 minutes. Cool breads on rack at least 30 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Note: you’ll get the most tender soda bread by kneading the dough gently, just until it comes together, so the gluten is minimally developed.

St. Patrick's Day09For our main dish, I decided to make some serious comfort food … Shepherd’s Pie.  Found this recipe on Epicurious, as well. I decided to make it with half ground lamb and half beef just to keep things interesting, and added Worcestershire sauce, a pinch of nutmeg and increased the amount of tomato paste.  Also jazzed up the mashed potato crust by adding a little sour cream and cream cheese.  Delicious!  I doubled this recipe, and made one of them in my Mauviel rondeau, which made for a beautiful serving dish.

St. Patrick's Day06Ingredients
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 large onion, peeled and chopped
1 large carrot, peeled and chopped
1 pound ground lamb (or substitute half with another ground meat)
1 cup beef or chicken brothSt. Patrick's Day05
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 teaspoon chopped fresh or dry rosemary
1 tablespoon chopped Italian parsley
1 cup frozen peas
2 pounds russet potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup milk (any fat content)
Kosher salt to taste

St. Patrick's Day03Directions
1. Preheat oven to 375°F.
2. In a large sauté pan over medium-high heat, heat the oil, then add the onion, carrot, and meat. Cook until browned, 8 to 10 minutes.
3. Drain the fat and add the broth, tomato paste, and herbs. Simmer until the juices thicken, about 10 minutes, then add the peas.
4. Pour the mixture into a 1 1/2-quart baking dish; set aside.
5. Meanwhile, bring the potatoes to a boil in salted water. Cook until tender, about 20 minutes; drain.
6. Mash the potatoes with the butter, milk, and salt.
7. Spread them over the meat mixture, then crosshatch the top with a fork.
8. Bake until golden, 30 to 35 minutes.St. Patrick's Day04

Tip • Instead of using a baking dish for the Shepherd’s Pie, keep the filling in the (ovenproof) sauté pan in which you cook it, top with the crust, and bake it all in the oven for a skillet version that won’t dirty another dish.

Lastly, what Irish meal would be complete without cabbage?  Molly Stevens has an excellent recipe, World’s Best Braised Cabbage. Her recipe comes from friends in Richmond, Virginia who, as she says, “were smitten by a braised cabbage side dish at their favorite restaurant,” so Molly decided to try and re-create it at home.  It’s so simple, once you make it, you won’t need to look at the recipe again.

St. Patrick's Day08Ingredients
1 medium head green cabbage (about 2 pounds)1 large yellow onion, thickly sliced
1 large carrot cut into 1/4″ rounds
1/4 cup chicken stock
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/8 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
Fleur de sel or coarse sea salt

Directions
1. Heat oven to 325 degrees. Lightly oil a large gratin or roasting dish.
2. Peel off and discard any bruised or ragged outer leaves. The cabbage should weigh close to 2 pounds so it will fit in a single layer in the baking dish. If necessary, cut away a wedge of the cabbage to trim it down to size.
3. Cut the cabbage into 8 wedges. Arrange the wedges in the baking dish, doing your best to make a single layer.
4. Scatter in the onion and carrot. Drizzle over the oil and stock. Season with salt, pepper and pepper flakes. Cover tightly with foil, and slide into the middle of the oven to braise until the vegetables are completely tender, about 2 hours. Turn the cabbage wedges after an hour. Don’t worry if the wedges want to fall apart as you turn them, just do your best to keep them intact. If the dish is drying out at all, add a few tablespoons of water.
5. Once the cabbage is completely tender, remove the foil, increase the oven heat to 400 degrees and roast until the vegetables begin to brown, another 15 minutes or so. Serve warm or at room temperature, sprinkled with fleur de sel or other coarse salt.

Kathy molly stevensI HIGHLY recommend investing in Molly Stevens cookbooks, All About Braising (winner of a 2005 James Beard award) and All About Roasting (winner of a 2012 James Beard award).  You won’t be disappointed!  I was fortunate to attend a cooking class she hosted last year .. such a treat.

Dinner is served!

St. Patrick's Day10

Baumalu Review

The go-to potThe most common question I’m asked in my kitchen is “do you really use your copper pots?” which kinda makes me giggle.  When my husband first started purchasing our copper pots, I kept them polished and beautiful, and still reached for my All-Clad and Cuisinart standbys.  As I slowly started using the copper beauties, I became a believer in copper.  It might be because I’m a bit controlling … and the copper responds so quickly to heat that it fuels my desire to control.The first copper pots in my collection were used, and not marked with a brand-name, and it seemed that Baumalu was regularly sold on eBay.  My husband can be a bit obsessive when it comes to learning and researching, which can make me crazy (I’ll admit it … I usually buy the first car I test-drive).  He couldn’t find much information on-line about them, but today I have 5 Baumalus and they are my most used.  Here’s what I’ve learned about them, having now used them for a couple of years.

There seem to be three lines of Baumalu copper, which is usually not specified on eBay.  One line is a hammered copper, which I don’t have any of, since they always seem to sell higher and don’t think they would out-perform the others.  Another line is the lighter weight, less expensive line and is easy to spot in a photo because it has a chromed-steel handle and is a stainless steel pot with a thin layer of copper on the exterior (the stainless steel appears to be 2 mm thick, and copper less than 1 mm).

Tin on the left and stainless on the right.

I use this pot when I’m looking for more consistency and don’t need as much control since the stainless steel doesn’t change temperature as quickly as tin.  The much heavier, much sturdier, and much less refined-looking Baumalu (I’m guessing it’s a commercial line) have cast iron handles and 2 ml thick copper.  They are tin-lined, which I prefer, particularly for sauces since there’s no burn ring as the sauce reduces, and if I’m cooking something that I need precise heat control, there just isn’t a better option.  When using copper, remember that you can’t set an empty pot on a heated burner, or you’ll separate the tin layer from the copper.  Also, if you’re using a commercial-style range with high BTU burners, there’s never a reason to turn the heat higher than “medium” … I can boil water quicker in these pots on medium heat than in a stainless steel All-Clad on high.  Even though all but one of my Baumalus were new when I bought them, I enjoy using them since it makes me feel like I’m cooking in the Downton Abbey kitchen.  Sometimes I hear that folks are afraid of the tin, thinking it won’t pass the test of time, but I haven’t had any problems, and haven’t yet had my pots re-tinned.

Left: Baumalu 3qt.sauce pan Center: Mauviel 3 1/2-qt. Rondeau Right: Ruffoni 4 3/4-qt. stockpot

Copper vs Copper
I didn’t buy a set of pots, I bought the pots one at a time based on what I needed (which is a post for another time).  I have a Mauviel and a few Ruffonis in my collection that are just downright beautiful, but I find myself reaching for my Baumalus more regularly since I love to be in control. 😉

A word about thickness
Julia Child was known for saying to buy copper cookware that’s at least 3 mm thick … I have only one this thick that my husband found used on-line.  It’s a Baumalu windsor pan.  I’ve never seen a Baumalu 3 mm copper pot new … probably because the price would be so high.  My Baumalu 2 mm 11-inch braiser is pretty heavy; if it were 3 mm, even though I lift weights every week, I don’t know if I could pick it up, especially if it was full!  The difference in the way sauces reduce when comparing my 2 mm with 3 mm is so very slight, I don’t think it’d be worth the money.  But, I do highly recommend spending the money to get a 2 mm verses 1, especially for reductions.

Clean by Bar Keepers FriendKeeping copper clean
The second most-asked question I’m asked is how I keep my copper pots cleaned.  To be honest, I kinda like the patina look on my pots.  I’ll make ’em shine at Thanksgiving by using my Bar Keepers Friend.  You can also clean the copper by slicing a lemon, dipping in coarse salt, and rubbing it in to the copper.  Another option is to rub ketchup over the copper, let it sit for a little while, then rinse off.

I recently wrote a review on Ruffoni pots.