Overdone Christmas Party Meatfest, part 2: Estofat of Wild Boar

Wild BoarIt’s a rainy day here in San Francisco, so rather than stepping outside for last-minute Christmas shopping, I’d decided to stay in and share with you my experience with preparing wild boar.  In our quest for an interesting culinary experience for our party guests, Curt found a meat supplier, D’Artagnan, to ship us wild boar shoulder roasts. I found this recipe on the D’Artagnan website, and although you have to begin preparations a couple days ahead, it is so worthwhile!  … and, you can always turn the prep work into a party!  My friend Sandra was sweet enough to come over a few days ahead of time to help.

Ingredients
5 pounds D’Artagnan boneless wild boar shoulder
1 bottle (750 ml) full-bodied dry red wine, such as a Syrah
2 tablespoons cognac or brandy
Salt and pepper
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 carrots, sliced
1 onion, thickly sliced
1 tablespoon dried Mediterranean oregano
2 bay leaf
2 teaspoons juniper berries
1 teaspoon bruised black and/or white peppercorns
1 head garlic, halved horizontally
1/3 cup red wine vinegar
fresh flat-leaf parsley sprigs, chopped, for garnish

Preparation
Trim the BoarTwo days in advance, trim any excess fat from the wild boar and cut the meat into 24 pieces of approximately equal size. Gather all the trimmed fat and set aside.

Everything is better with cognacIn a flameware casserole, bring the wine and cognac to a boil over medium-low heat. This would be the time to pause and remember where you stashed away that kitchen fire extinguisher!  Turn off the heat and ignite, averting your face.

Ignite the alcohol When the flames subside, cover the casserole to keep the liquid hot.  Generously season the wild boar with salt and pepper. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large conventional skillet (of course I pulled out my go-to cast iron).

Brown

Sauté the meat in batches over medium-high heat, turning, until nicely browned all over, about 5 minutes. Be sure not to crowd the skillet, otherwise the meat will steam and not brown!  As they are done, add each batch of hot meat to the hot wine in the casserole. Let stand for 1 hour.

Meanwhile, add the trimmed fat to the skillet and cook over medium-high heat until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Add the carrots, onion, oregano, bay leaves, juniper berries, peppercorns, garlic, vinegar, and 1/4 cup water. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 10 minutes. Scrape the contents of the skillet into the casserole.

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Ladle 1 cup of the liquid from the casserole into the skillet and bring to a boil, scraping up any browned bits still clinging to the bottom of the pan. Boil over high heat until reduced and syrupy, about 5 minutes (sipping on a nice glass of wine will help here … it’s important to be patient and not rush through this step). Ladle another cup of the marinade from the casserole into the skillet and again boil down to a syrup. Return this reduced syrupy liquid to the casserole.

Preheat oven to 250 degrees F. Set the casserole over medium heat and slowly bring to a boil. Cover with a sheet of crumpled parchment paper and a tight-fitting lid and cook over low heat for 30 minutes.

Transfer the casserole to the oven and bake for 1 1/2 hours. Remove the lid but not the paper and continue to cook for 2 hours. Transfer to a wooden board or folded kitchen towel to prevent cracking. Discard the paper and use a slotted spoon to transfer the meat to a bowl.

Strain the liquid and vegetables through a fine sieve set over a conventional saucepan. Press hard to get every drop of liquid. Skim off some of the fat and boil the juices over high heat until reduced to about 3 cups. Let cool; then cover and refrigerate the sauce and meat separately.

A day or two later, remove the meat and sauce from the refrigerator and let stand for about 2 hours to bring the meat and sauce back to room temperature. Meanwhile, brush a shallow baking dish with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

Place the boar in the baking dish. Remove the fat from the surface of the sauce. Gently reheat the sauce in a conventional saucepan. Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper and pour over the boar. Place in the oven and bake for 30 minutes. Sprinkle with parsley and serve hot.

The D’Artagnan recipe included an almond & chocolate picada, and I had every intention of making this, but simply ran out of time … I decided I really did need to take a shower before our guests began to arrive!

Why the heck would I go to so much trouble to prepare wild boar?  I’ve pretty much stuck to making the same 5 meats my whole life … chicken, turkey, pork, fish, and beef.  Now that I’m 50, I’ve been at this for a while!  Technique of this dish was so unique, I just had to try it.  Not that I’m a wild boar conisseur, but I’ve read that because they are fed acorns it gives the meat a richer taste.  The meat is lean and pork-like, but darker in color and has a tighter grain.  It pairs nicely with a bold red wine or strong ale, which you typically can’t do with a traditional pork dish.  Next time I’ll serve with a nice zinfandel.

As for the taste, YUM!  It’s as rich as a duck, but drier (and not greasy) … lean and tries to be as dry as a turkey.  Wild boar would never be confused for any meat you would find from a grocery counter.  Next time, I’ll serve this dish over hot buttered egg noodles.

Enjoy!

Overdone Christmas Party Meatfest, part 1: Christmas Goose

Christmas gooseI’m feeling rather inspired to blog about my most recent culinary adventure while relaxing here on the sofa, enjoying a nice cab, watching Julie & Julia. This past weekend Curt and I hosted our annual Christmas party, and we did get rather adventureous with the menu, which included: wild boar, Christmas goose, bison chili, roasted turkey, 4-cheese pasta for our vegetarian friends, plus a plethera of side dishes. It’s true, I did cook for a week, but it was a pretty fabulous dinner, if I say so myself.

Christmas Goose
Step 1: Find the goose, then prep
While it can be difficult to find a goose at our markets here in Pasadena, it’s a different story at the Asian markets in Alhambra. So, just a short drive south, I found a goose in the freezer section and let it defrost in my refrigerator for a few days.

Having never prepared goose before, I simply had no idea what to expect with my “Confucious-style-goose” … but was I ever surprised to discover that Confucious liked his goose completely intact … from head to toe! I shreeked when I turned the goose over and discovered an eyeball looking ominously in my direction. Confucious Style Young Goose

Fortunately my foodie friend Shelley, who is much braver than I, had volunteered to help in the kitchen that night, and I was grateful that she took on the task of clearing out all of the frightening “parts” that were completely unfamiliar to me.Shelley cleaning the goose

I planned to follow the recipe by one of my favorite authors, Molly Stevens, and did so successfully until the end … but more about that later. To prep the goose, tear off any loose deposits of fat inside the cavity openings. Using a sharp skewer or paring knife, prick holes in the skin around the lower breast and thighs (the holes allow fat to release from under the skin during cooking). Then generously sprinkle salt and pepper inside and out, and leave the bird resting uncovered on a half sheet pan in the refrigerator.Steaming the goose

Step 2: Steam the goose
Place the goose, breast side up, on a rack in a roasting pan. Pour water into the roaster pan until it is about 1-2 inches deep, then cover tightly with heavy-duty foil. Set the roaster on the stove, and heat on medium high heat until the water is boiling. Turn down the heat so the water gently simmers. Steam the goose for 40 minutes. After the steaming process, I noticed a few pinfeathers, but they were easy to pluck out with my needle-nose plyers.Removing pinfeathers

Step 3: Roast the goose
Heat oven to 325 degrees. Lift the roasting rack and goose out of the roasting pan and set aside on a tray. Pour the steaming liquid into a clean vessel and leave at room temperature until cool. Return the roasting rack and goose to the roasting pan. Transfer to the oven and roast until the meat on the drumsticks feels soft when pressed, about 2 hours. The internal temperature of the thigh meat should be about 180 degrees. Set the goose in a draft-free spot to rest for 20-45 minutes, tenting with foil if your kitchen is cool. Carve and serve.

Unfortunately I fell behind with the craziness of having 100 people for dinner, so I didn’t follow the recipe closely to make Molly’s gravy. Having made several of her recipes, I can imagine how tasty the gravy would be, so, don’t be a cheapskate! Bite the bullet and just order her roasting cookbook … you won’t be disappointed!